日本代购-≪パーカーポイント 90‐92点！≫2023 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat ChablisThe Wine Advocate RP (90-92)Reviewed by:Kristaps KarklinsRelease Price:NADrink Date:N/AThe 2023 Chablis, with the majority of its fruit sourced from the vineyards near Vincent Dauvissat’s La Forest, is a notable success and one of the top performers of the appellation. Soaring from the glass with scents of citrus oil, pear and dried flowers, it’s medium to full-bodied and textural, with lively acidity and a mineral finish. If only all Chablis would taste like this!2023年のシャブリは、ヴァンサン・ドーヴィサのラ・フォレスト近郊の畑で収穫されたブドウを主に使用しており、注目すべき成功を収め、このアペラシオンの中でもトップクラスの出来栄えです。グラスから立ち上る柑橘オイル、洋梨、ドライフラワーの香りは、ミディアムボディからフルボディまで、テクスチャー豊かで、生き生きとした酸味とミネラル感のある余韻が特徴です。すべてのシャブリがこんな味だったらいいのに！ Vincent Dauvissat is one of the greatest vignerons in France, producing some of the most soulful wines not just in Chablis but across the entire Burgundy region. Dauvissat, who once considered a career as a shepherd, ultimately became a vigneron and, though technically retired, remains a vital presence at his eponymous domaine. His personality, both meditative and meticulous, is reflected in his wines, which, provided the cork holds well, are incredibly long-lived. The estate's 12-hectare size is modest but enough to have built a strong reputation for itself and vineyards—there’s hardly anyone more synonymous with Séchet or La Forest than Dauvissat. Its farming practices are organic, though not certified. Harvest is done by hand, and after fermentation in tanks, the wines are racked into barrels (including the smaller-sized feuillettes, which are easy to spot when tasting at this address, as they are placed in the very center of the cellar), where they spend two winters aging on the fine lees. Dauvissat’s wines go into barrel after fermentation in tank with plenty of lees, and perhaps this provides a point of distinction—in addition, of course, to different farming practices—from Raveneau's somewhat broader-shouldered, more textural wines, which go into barrel with very little in the way of solids. Another distinguishing feature of Dauvissat’s winemaking is the handling of the wines post-aging: the first bottling, typically destined for the American market, undergoes light filtration, while a second—a later bottling—is unfiltered, and some of those are sealed with wax, while others see a foil capsule. The range begins with Petit Chablis, based on parcels of Portlandian limestone, and Chablis Village, produced mostly from vines that face his holdings in La Forest, both routinely overperforming the reputation of their appellations and are aging very well. The range continues with four premiers crus: Séchet is a dry and mineral wine, sourced from a small parcel within Vaillons where hard limestone lies close to the surface. It is distinct from Vaillons itself, which is broader and more textural, as the soils here are deeper. The contender to Vaillons for the most youthfully expressive, charming wine is Montée de Tonnerre, the most powerful of his premiers crus. One of the best-known wines is the taut and remarkably pure La Forest; amounting to 4.5 hectares, La Forest accounts for a third of the domaine’s surface area. The grand cru duo completes the range, standing out as particularly mineral and pure—Les Preuses is more ethereal, while the muscular, richly structured Les Clos offers a striking contrast. Which of the two is superior is open to interpretation, but at their best, these are some of the finest white wines in Burgundy. Dauvissat’s wines are highly structured and can be tight and even closed in the early years after bottling. However, with proper aging—often 10 to 15 years—they reveal their full potential, offering a deep expression of the site. While much commercial Chablis is utterly predictable, Vincent Dauvissat’s old-fashioned wines are anything but: their phases of evolution and the way they respond to oxygen are unlike almost anything else in the region. This also means that for younger vintages decanting or early opening is highly recommended. As the wine ages, it is more marked by producer and vineyard than it is by its vintage signature, which is another recurring theme with Dauvissat’s wines. There’s no grower in the region who has done a better job of retaining all of Chablis’s classical signatures, even in the warm, sunny vintages that are more present in the contemporary Chablis, as the wines retain the tension and salinity one seeks where many others produce more fruit-driven, even soft wines. There are few better illustrations of Chablis than these age-worthy, artisanal wines from one of the brightest lights of the region. Published: Mar 07, 2025
